Posted by admin on November 28, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris | 
January 1st, 2008 will mark the end of an era in Paris: the era of smoke-filled bars and cafes. Many tourists and residents will rejoice, but I have to admit that I’m happy to have visited some of my favorite haunts like Smoke on Rue Delambre in Montparnasse, and my new-found favorite,
Cafe Six 19, Rue des Canettes in St. Germain-des-Pres before the ban on smoking goes into effect. Students hunched over tables with a beer in one hand and the burning ember of a cigarette in the other - just seems ’so Parisian’. But even old cliches must eventually be buried.
(If you get a chance to see one of the hit movies this season in Paris “The Secret”, you’ll note that the martyr in this story is a chain-smoking bookworm who sacrifices her life and her child’s life for a principle -retaining her identity).
In time, the nostalgia for smoke-filled bars will be as unfathomable as would be a yearning to bring back spittoons. The foul habit of spitting has been successfully eradicated in most of the developed world.
How cigarette companies succeeded in equating smoking with romance is another one of those advertising coups comparable to DeBeers ‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friend’. We are all sadly mutated by the power of advertising - even those of us who were lucky enough not to become addicted to smoking - or buying diamonds.
What does the smoking ban in Paris’s restaurants and cafes mean for you, the blythe tourist? It means that hostesses and maitre d’s can no longer use the excuse for shunting you to the ‘grenier’ i.e. the attic or down to the dungeon (the usual non-smoking sections set aside specifically for poorly dressed tourists). Okay, maybe I’m blowing this out of proportion.
But, seriously, non-smoking sections in French restaurants are truly comical. They are normally tucked in a corner where all the noxious gases from the smokers, the exhaust fans, and the WC gather to form a mushroom cloud over the squeamish guests who are deliberating about whether to eat salad and whether the cost of bottled water is justified as a means to avoid local Parisian microbes in the tap water.
Just so you know. You can drink the tap water in Paris. If you live in Paris and have old water pipes, you might want to stick with bottled water, but for a few days in Paris, the tap water fine.Remember simply that most cafes make their money serving liquids, not food. Order a carafe of water only when you have a full meal. Salads in France are normally a very healthy choice. My only warning would be to avoid dishes using ‘creme fraiche’ on exceptionally hot days.
It occurs to me that most of our ‘romantic images’ of Paris also tend to be focused on rather unhealthy people and unhealthy times. TB was rampant in Chopin’s time. Picasso and Modi were starving. Nowadays, some club scenes are moving toward not only ’smoke-free’ but ‘drug-free’ attitude.
Meanwhile back at the cafe, what will replace smoking as the romantic pose for French cafe residents? Text messaging? Black pearl twisting?
Posted by admin on November 23, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris |
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
The Tuileries Garden, located on Paris’s Right Bank, bordered by the Louvre on one side, the Orangerie and Jeu de Paume on the other, and Musee d’Orsay just across the Seine River is the perfect place to soothe your sore feet in between museum treks, but more than that, the Tuileries is an ideal park for fashion shoots - with or without tourists.
A case in point is Harper’s Bazaar lead fashion shoot for December, 2007: Renee Zellweger tripping along garden paths in Armani alongside a gaggle of tourists in jeans, flip-flops and an assortment of running shoes. You have to give photographer Peter Lindbergh credit for creating a fashion photo - which really makes you feel like you’re there (maybe you WERE there!).
The Tuileries has plenty of places ‘away from the crowd - if you just choose to race up the steps that Zellweger is trying to race down in her Christian Lacroix skirt and Roger Vivier shoes, you’ll find sculpture that hardly resembles the more classic sculptures at ground level.
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
The Tuileries Garden, located on Paris’s Right Bank, bordered by the Louvre on one side, the Orangerie and Jeu de Paume on the other, and Musee d’Orsay just across the Seine River is the perfect place to soothe your sore feet in between museum treks, but more than that, the Tuileries is an ideal park for fashion shoots - with or without tourists.
A case in point is Harper’s Bazaar lead fashion shoot for December, 2007: Renee Zellweger tripping along garden paths in Armani alongside a gaggle of tourists in jeans, flip-flops and an assortment of running shoes. You have to give photographer Peter Lindbergh credit for creating a fashion photo - which really makes you feel like you’re there (maybe you WERE there!).
The Tuileries has plenty of places ‘away from the crowd - if you just choose to race up the steps that Zellweger is trying to race down in her Christian Lacroix skirt and Roger Vivier shoes, you’ll find sculpture that hardly resembles the more classic sculptures at ground level.
The Good Samaritan
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
The Good Samaritan
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
Cain and Abel
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
This is clearly a park with a multi-dimensional personality. At first glance, you might too quickly pigeonhole this park as being a typical example of a formal French garden with its carefully dilineated rows of tulip beds, it’s broad walkways, and the round reflecting pools.
It was designed by Andre Le Notre in 1664. He was the royal garden architect also responsible for the gardens at Versailles.
However, the introduction of Maillol sculptures in the past 20th century and other surprising sculpture that pops up in places where you hardly expect to find it, plus the summer amusement park facing Rue de Rivoli, and the ferris wheel are all flights of fancy that one would hardly expect to find in a formerly royal garden.
Before the the Tuileries Palace was burned to the ground, this was the stomping grounds of royalty - and for a brief time during the French Revolution, it was a sort of outdoor cage for the royal family before they were ultimately put out of their misery. Even though the Tuileries palace was burned down long after the French Revolution (in the 1870s during the rule of the Commune), the vehemence toward symbols of privilege had hardly abated. It took 48 hours to put out a fire that destroyed a palace ordered by Catherine de Medici in the 1500s. Did they know how to build in those days, or what? Fortunately for us, although parts of the Louvre were damaged by fire, the majority of the Louvre palace and museum survived.
You don’t need to be a fashion photographer or a fashion model (or even in show business) to enjoy this park. Just bring your camera and dress up or dress down as much as you please.
Keep in mind that if you arrive at high noon on a summer’s day, you’ll be happy you brought a hat and shades. The soft light of spring and fall can be the best time to catch some great shots in this park - or a snack at the park cafe shaded by trees - or a late afternoon snooze around the reflecting pool.
Cain and Abel
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
This is clearly a park with a multi-dimensional personality. At first glance, you might too quickly pigeonhole this park as being a typical example of a formal French garden with its carefully dilineated rows of tulip beds, it’s broad walkways, and the round reflecting pools.
It was designed by Andre Le Notre in 1664. He was the royal garden architect also responsible for the gardens at Versailles.
However, the introduction of Maillol sculptures in the past 20th century and other surprising sculpture that pops up in places where you hardly expect to find it, plus the summer amusement park facing Rue de Rivoli, and the ferris wheel are all flights of fancy that one would hardly expect to find in a formerly royal garden.
Before the the Tuileries Palace was burned to the ground, this was the stomping grounds of royalty - and for a brief time during the French Revolution, it was a sort of outdoor cage for the royal family before they were ultimately put out of their misery. Even though the Tuileries palace was burned down long after the French Revolution (in the 1870s during the rule of the Commune), the vehemence toward symbols of privilege had hardly abated. It took 48 hours to put out a fire that destroyed a palace ordered by Catherine de Medici in the 1500s. Did they know how to build in those days, or what? Fortunately for us, although parts of the Louvre were damaged by fire, the majority of the Louvre palace and museum survived.
You don’t need to be a fashion photographer or a fashion model (or even in show business) to enjoy this park. Just bring your camera and dress up or dress down as much as you please.
Keep in mind that if you arrive at high noon on a summer’s day, you’ll be happy you brought a hat and shades. The soft light of spring and fall can be the best time to catch some great shots in this park - or a snack at the park cafe shaded by trees - or a late afternoon snooze around the reflecting pool.
If you stand in the center of the Tuileries Garden, you can try to locate ‘the spine’ of Paris: In one direction, you should be able to see all the way down the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe. Beyond the Arc, lies Francois Mitterand’s legacy, the Grand Arch in La Defense. In the opposite direction, you can try lining up the Carrousel du Louvre (a miniature version of the Arc de Triomphe), the IM Pei’s pyramid - and much farther away (and not to be seen from ground level), La Bastille (the actual Bastille no longer exists - it was demolished during the French revolution) and the July Column takes its place.
Getting to the Tuileries:
Metro stops: Tuileries, Palais Royal, Concorde.
Food: In good weather, you can lunch outdoors. The park cafe operates even in cool weather, offering a ‘vin chaud’ or hot wine to take off the chill of a winter’s day.
Posted by admin on November 22, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris |
Saturdays in November can be the ideal time to walk around Left Bank neighborhoods, St. Germain-des-Pres, in particular. Here you can catch the pulse of the Parisian cultural and fashion world - or simply enjoy a stroll window-shopping as the beginning of Christmas shopping brings out many Parisians.
If you’ve followed my advice and booked an inexpensive hotel in Montparnasse, fortify yourself with a breakfast of croissants, cafe au lait and orange juice before you venture too far from your Montparnasse hotel.
Saturdays in November can be the ideal time to walk around Left Bank neighborhoods, St. Germain-des-Pres, in particular. Here you can catch the pulse of the Parisian cultural and fashion world - or simply enjoy a stroll window-shopping as the beginning of Christmas shopping brings out many Parisians.
If you’ve followed my advice and booked an inexpensive hotel in Montparnasse, fortify yourself with a breakfast of croissants, cafe au lait and orange juice before you venture too far from your Montparnasse hotel.
Saturdays, the Edgar Quinet market is in full swing. Here you’ll find not only plenty of fruits, vegetables, and cheese, but also inexpensive handbags and scarves which make nice souvenirs.
Saturdays, the Edgar Quinet market is in full swing. Here you’ll find not only plenty of fruits, vegetables, and cheese, but also inexpensive handbags and scarves which make nice souvenirs.
In Montparnasse, or if you’re looking for a quick carbo-loading, you can stop in at Viagio Restaurant
www.viagio-restaurant.com for substantial portion of pasta at 4.90 to 5.70 Euros served in Chinese take-out style cartons.
Viagio, 4 Place du 18 Juin 1949 6eme Metro: Montparnasse (at the corner of Rue de Rennes and Blvd. Montparnasse).
Rue de Rennes is a left bank shopping street where you’ll find plenty of relatively inexpensive chain stores such as H&M, Mango, Zara, Kookai. You have to keep walking the entire length of Rue de Rennes before you get to the stylish St. Germain-des-Pres boutiques (but also the price increases the closer you get to St. Germain-des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris.
If you’re looking for books, CDs, mobile phones, or electronics, be sure to stop in FNAC bookstore on your left side. Here is where you can also buy theater, concert, and museum show tickets in advance. On a Saturday afternoon, you may find the throngs of shoppers overwhelming, in which case, pick a street running parallel to Rue de Rennes. You’l most likely run into St. Sulpice church enroute to St. Germain-des-Pres Church.
St. Sulpice which which as received recent notoriety because of its role in the Da Vinci code is currently being stored (one tower and part of its facade). However you can still go inside and admire the Delacroix painting in the chapel to the immediate right of the main entrance.
In Montparnasse, or if you’re looking for a quick carbo-loading, you can stop in at Viagio Restaurant
www.viagio-restaurant.com for substantial portion of pasta at 4.90 to 5.70 Euros served in Chinese take-out style cartons.
Viagio, 4 Place du 18 Juin 1949 6eme Metro: Montparnasse (at the corner of Rue de Rennes and Blvd. Montparnasse).
Rue de Rennes is a left bank shopping street where you’ll find plenty of relatively inexpensive chain stores such as H&M, Mango, Zara, Kookai. You have to keep walking the entire length of Rue de Rennes before you get to the stylish St. Germain-des-Pres boutiques (but also the price increases the closer you get to St. Germain-des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris.
If you’re looking for books, CDs, mobile phones, or electronics, be sure to stop in FNAC bookstore on your left side. Here is where you can also buy theater, concert, and museum show tickets in advance. On a Saturday afternoon, you may find the throngs of shoppers overwhelming, in which case, pick a street running parallel to Rue de Rennes. You’l most likely run into St. Sulpice church enroute to St. Germain-des-Pres Church.
St. Sulpice which which as received recent notoriety because of its role in the Da Vinci code is currently being stored (one tower and part of its facade). However you can still go inside and admire the Delacroix painting in the chapel to the immediate right of the main entrance.
I like to take this route which branches off from Rue de Rennes at Rue du Four because a warren of streets runs from St. Sulpice across to Blvd. St. Germain. You’ll find plenty of inviting restaurants in these streets such as at Cafe Six, 19 Rue des Canettes.
I like to take this route which branches off from Rue de Rennes at Rue du Four because a warren of streets runs from St. Sulpice across to Blvd. St. Germain. You’ll find plenty of inviting restaurants in these streets such as at Cafe Six, 19 Rue des Canettes.
Here is where we stumbled into Cafe Six, a cozy Basque tapas bar where you can either quaff a beer or enjoy a sangria with real fruit. The tapas are excellent. Fried calamaris for example. For smokers, get there before January 1st, 2008 and you will be able to enjoy your vice in plenty of good company. The wait staff here are accommodating - and I’d go so far as to say that the female wait staff deserve some sort of award a being the most efficient and at the same time maybe the most gorgeous women on the Left Bank. If you’ve been to some of the ‘trendy’ spots in town, you’ve seen the vacant look of the wait staff chosen for their ‘model’ taille, rather than their abilities to bring food and drink to your table.
Here is where we stumbled into Cafe Six, a cozy Basque tapas bar where you can either quaff a beer or enjoy a sangria with real fruit. The tapas are excellent. Fried calamaris for example. For smokers, get there before January 1st, 2008 and you will be able to enjoy your vice in plenty of good company. The wait staff here are accommodating - and I’d go so far as to say that the female wait staff deserve some sort of award a being the most efficient and at the same time maybe the most gorgeous women on the Left Bank. If you’ve been to some of the ‘trendy’ spots in town, you’ve seen the vacant look of the wait staff chosen for their ‘model’ taille, rather than their abilities to bring food and drink to your table.
This is NOT the case at the Cafe Six!
The best time to get to arrive at St. Germain-des-Pres Church is early evening. You want to be here around the l’heure d’aperatif when the cafes start to hop. Don’t waste your time going into Les Deux Magots or Brasserie Lipp. Stroll around the square. Explore the streets behind the church (Rue de l’Abbaye, for example).
This is NOT the case at the Cafe Six!
The best time to get to arrive at St. Germain-des-Pres Church is early evening. You want to be here around the l’heure d’aperatif when the cafes start to hop. Don’t waste your time going into Les Deux Magots or Brasserie Lipp. Stroll around the square. Explore the streets behind the church (Rue de l’Abbaye, for example).
Pay your respects to Picasso’s statue dedicated to Apollinaire in the church courtyard, and take some time to admire Paris’s oldest church.
Not much remains of its original construction dating from 990 to 1021 AD. A few columns here and there (some which have been duplicated with the originals removed to the Musee Cluny), but simply knowing that this church once housed relics of the Cross, that this was the site where fierce Norsemen battled against the clergy for control of this fortified abbey, makes one think of those days when Paris and its outlying regions had to defend themselves without respite.
Nowadays, the only worst intrusions are the site of the ugly Montparnasse tower which looms in the distance like an unwelcome reminder of an architecture that has no regard for its surroundings. Much as I detest the Montparnasse tower, it does serve a useful purpose. We have no difficulty returning back to our Montparnasse lodging. You won’t get lost on this walk if you manage to stay on Rue de Rennes: you’ll constantly see the Montparnasse tower straight ahead of you.
Pay your respects to Picasso’s statue dedicated to Apollinaire in the church courtyard, and take some time to admire Paris’s oldest church.
Not much remains of its original construction dating from 990 to 1021 AD. A few columns here and there (some which have been duplicated with the originals removed to the Musee Cluny), but simply knowing that this church once housed relics of the Cross, that this was the site where fierce Norsemen battled against the clergy for control of this fortified abbey, makes one think of those days when Paris and its outlying regions had to defend themselves without respite.
Nowadays, the only worst intrusions are the site of the ugly Montparnasse tower which looms in the distance like an unwelcome reminder of an architecture that has no regard for its surroundings. Much as I detest the Montparnasse tower, it does serve a useful purpose. We have no difficulty returning back to our Montparnasse lodging. You won’t get lost on this walk if you manage to stay on Rue de Rennes: you’ll constantly see the Montparnasse tower straight ahead of you.
Posted by admin on under One stop travel guide to Paris |
Monday morning 7 am, November 19th, the strike continues until an accord can be met between labor unions and the French government.
First, I have to apologize for some major MISINFORMATION.
During the strike, transport on the RATP Metro service is NOT FREE. So I have been informed by Eric who mentioned that the ‘controlleurs’ or ticket checkers actually had the nerve to ask people to show their used Metro tickets.
This was on one of the lines (unlike Line #13) that had been transformed into a sardine factory.
According to Eric who takes the Metro from Boulogne to work on Paris’s Right Bank, the ticket controller asked for a few tickets and finally he gave up when Metro riders responded in fury. Needless to say, people were slightly irate.
So here’s the story, theoretically even though all the gates are open and few very people are manning the ticket sales booths, you are expected to put your ticket through the turnstyle machines. Not surprisingly, not too many people have been doing this - which is why I ‘assumed’ that the Metro was ‘free’ during the strike.
There are fines for not having a ticket when a ‘controlleur’ asks to see your ticket. Be forewarned.
If you are wondering about getting to and from CDG, all I can advise is to leave EARLY for the airport. We left this morning at 7 am for a 12 noon flight. It took us 2 1/2 hours for a trip that normally takes 45 minutes to an hour. If you are going from CDG into Paris, there are major traffic jams today. Air France shuttle buses are an option for transport. We saw Air France shuttle (CDG to Orly) in the traffic jam.
We opted for reserving a cab from Paris, and this time I tried the taxi service, Apsara Taxi. Tel. 01 43 84 28 07,
Tel. 01 4384 27 83
They arrived on time at our front door and did as good a job as can be expected giving the traffic jams. Our faire was 67 Euros for the 2 1/2 hour drive to CDG.
Posted by admin on under One stop travel guide to Paris |
So, this is the look: A loose fitting black jacket. Grey skirt. Black or grey opaque stockings and black boots. One of the Metro passengers, I interviewed assured me that the best place in town to get a good haircut was in the Marais district. “There’s plenty of salons there.”
So, this is the look: A loose fitting black jacket. Grey skirt. Black or grey opaque stockings and black boots. One of the Metro passengers, I interviewed assured me that the best place in town to get a good haircut was in the Marais district. “There’s plenty of salons there.”
You’ll still see the occasional faux leopard jacket, but the streamlined black woolen coats or trenchcoats with a dash of color - often the color chosen will be hot pink - is what you’re likely to see this winter on Paris streets.
Metallic handbags? More of those are in shop windows than on the street.
Shorts and opaque stockings. Short shorts - especially at Cafe Six. Leggings.
Women here seemed to be tired of wearing severely cut pantsuits.
You’ll still see the occasional faux leopard jacket, but the streamlined black woolen coats or trenchcoats with a dash of color - often the color chosen will be hot pink - is what you’re likely to see this winter on Paris streets.
Metallic handbags? More of those are in shop windows than on the street.
Shorts and opaque stockings. Short shorts - especially at Cafe Six. Leggings.
Women here seemed to be tired of wearing severely cut pantsuits.
But it’s still nice to stay warm. That’s where a tall pair of leather boots comes in very handy.
But it’s still nice to stay warm. That’s where a tall pair of leather boots comes in very handy.
Posted by admin on November 21, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris |
If you’ve been in Paris for longer than a few weeks, holidays like Thanksgiving might be just the thing that trigger ‘culture shock’. Culture shock can occur when you’re living far from home and can hit you when you least expect it (usually after about six months is the normal time frame). You’ve been totally immersing yourself in the culture where you’re sojourning and suddenly, you wake up thinking about mashed potatoes drizzled with butter.
Paris has a number of havens - for such flights of fancy - particularly The Restaurant/Shop
Thanksgiving in the Marais district. Sadly, if you haven’t booked for your Thanksgiving Day meal long in advance, you’re not likely to get a table, but there are other restaurants offering American food in Paris to assuage your longing for a drumstick.
Thanksgiving has had a much better reception in France than Halloween, probably because it has roots based in historical events (the Pilgrims’ settlement in North America). It represents one of those few national holidays based on accord rather than confrontation. And, best of all, this is a holiday that’s all about celebrating food.
It’s one of the few holidays that the industrial complex has not been able to totally wrest from the public consciousness. Although uniquely ‘New World’ Thanksgiving makes sense to the rest of the world. Aside from the most staunch atheists who might say ‘give thanks to whom’ (for which you could always say - ‘whoever happens to be sitting next to you’, it’s a holiday that is basically non-denominational.
If you’re in Paris, and you’re looking for turkey in the grocery store.
The word is ‘dinde’ (pronounced as you would say, don’t get up your dander).
Normally, aside from Christmas turkeys ‘dinde’ is sold as ‘escalope de dinde’ or turkey cutlets. You can try cooking these Norman style with a little bit of ‘creme fraische’ or with a dash of Calvados.
Calvados is apple brandy which is a nice little drink for the November cold snap. A little bit goes a long ways. Here’s hoping you find some friends with whom to share a little bit of ‘calva’ for your Thanksgiving celebration (with or without the dinde).
If you’re in Paris, or planning on going to Paris, count your blessings. Many dream to visit this city which has welcomed visitors from all corners of the globe. (Any Parisians reading this, remember that even with strikes, you’re still one of the most envied group of citydwellers in the world).
So here’s my thank-you list for the City of Paris - and friends in France!
Thank you for:
1. Keeping Paris intact throughout the ages.
2. Keeping Paris a city that welcomes visitors from round the world.
3. Allowing Paris to be a city where visitors can enjoy French culture and also introduce others to their native cultures.
4. Tolerance.
5. Freedom of expression.
6. Great wine.
7. Beautiful public gardens.
8. Great conversations.
9. Your curiosity.
10. For being yourself.
Posted by admin on under One stop travel guide to Paris |
Today, according to Le Figaro news reports, 40,000 protesters were out in force on Paris streets. Over the past weekend, between 8 and 10,000 anti-protest protesters gathered near Republique in Paris’s eastern sector.
And just as SNCF announces this evening that the strike has been suspended during negotiations, it looks like teachers, the Post Office, France Telecom and EDF, followed by Air France pilots are jumping on the strike bandwagon.
None of this will do much good toward bolstering France’s economy - and the lack of buying power is not likely to improve - thanks to this boondoggle. Just to give a small example: Because of the looming strike, we naturally booked flights with an airline that would be less likely to be affected by the strike.
Rather than take the Air France shuttle (as we normally do) we booked an independent taxi company. How many other people visiting France - or doing business in France chose to cancel their trips?
Ultimately, will the strikes improve the quality of life in France for the majority? Only time will tell.
Posted by admin on under One stop travel guide to Paris |
According to today’s Le Figaro, three unions representing Air France pilots will strike starting November 24th through to November 27th (Parislogue warned you last week that Air France probably would eventually join in on this expanding strike).
Spokespeople for Air France (according to the Figaro report) say that this should have no impact on air travel. (Okay, so who IS flying Air France planes then? And if, Air France pilots are on strike, HOW do pilots strike if they don’t stop flying?
In the meantime, I guess we need to take Air France spokespeople at their word (if you’ve already purchased your Air France ticket for those dates). If you haven’t, there are other airlines that aren’t on strike.
We flew United Airlines from CDG to Dulles - service was fine. Just don’t order the wine!
Posted by admin on November 20, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris |
How safe is Paris? Compared to many world capitals, Paris is generally a very safe city. However, looks can sometimes be deceiving, especially when it comes to Paris’s most famous avenue, the Champs Elysees.
Tuileries garden - while walking around the Tuileries on a quiet afternoon, I was immediately approached by a girl of about 12 years old, holding up a a card asking for money. She also spoke fluent English. You’ll find ‘romanie’, ‘les gens de voyages’ or ‘gitanes’ (no longer politically correct) gypsies at train stations (particularly during the summer months). The main thing is to keep alert, and never be distracted in conversation with friends or family when you are ‘in transit’ i.e walking through Paris’s train stations or Metro corridors.
If you maintain an alert attitude at all times, you are less likely to have any hassles.
Pickpockets can work best when you are occupied either with friends, or purchasing food at quick food stands in train stations.
Certain Metro lines and Metro stops tend to be more ‘at risk’ than others, particularly on the more tourist jammed lines such as the #1 line which runs from the Champs Elysees stop to the Louvre and the Marais.
Chatelet with its long corridors between connecting trains also has a reputation for attracting pickpockets. If you are staying at a reasonably safe hotel, you might consider leaving certain travel documents, either in a room safe, or locked in your suitcase.
Over recent years, the ‘Champs’ has gone through changes, some good and not so good. Once marred with bumper to bumper parking, the sidewalks were expanded during the nineties and new rows of trees were added. Plenty of underground parking has made the avenue much more pleasant for walking.
On the negative side, much of the ‘cache’ of past years has been substituted with the type of ‘glam’ which doesn’t really represent Paris at its best - when it comes to designer boutiques (these, you’re more likely to find on the adjacent avenues such as Avenue Montaigne.
But even more disturbing is the increase in crime. Designer purse snatching has been around for a long time, but a new addition are the ‘ladies of the night’ who have moved their operation from the outskirts of the ‘Champs’ right onto the Avenue.
So, if you happen to encounter extremely attractive women eager to ’show you around’ beware! You may leave Paris with a much lighter wallet.
Needless to say, exercise the same kind of caution regarding handbags, wallets, etc. that you would use in more dicey neighborhoods. Don’t let the tree-lined, tranquil avenue fool you.
Women alone: The French police have been doing a pretty good job apparently. A ‘Montparnasse’ area rapist who had attacked at least five women in the Montparnasse area has been picked up with the help of women’s reports and also with video surveillance. Keep in mind that many of the Metro trains have operators - if you have a problem while using the Metro, stay close to the front car which will be closer to the operator. Do not linger on Metro platforms after they’ve emptied out - and take compartments that are populated.
Of course, most of this is common sense that you use instinctively in any major city. Generally speaking women should feel comfortable about walking around on their own in the evening, keeping in mind that you still should stick to streets that have foot traffic.
Latin Quarter, Montparnasse, Bastille are all busy nightspots. Save your walks to less populated areas for the daytime.
Posted by admin on November 17, 2007 under One stop travel guide to Paris |
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
It may be only the 15th of November, but Champs Elysees is already getting spruced up for the Christmas Holidays. The smell of freshly cut pine trees is in the air as the City of Paris gardeners arrange Christmas trees on the Champs Elysees Rond Point. Aside from the aroma of pine needles, you may catch a whiff of pricey perfumer at Guerlain,, 68 Champs Elysees, one of Paris’s top perfumer houses. For Christmas its windows are decorated with its ‘white bee’ and ‘golden bee’ scents which start at a paltry 300 and 400 Euros for a little l’eau de toilette.
Photo by Chris Card Fuller ©2007
It may be only the 15th of November, but Champs Elysees is already getting spruced up for the Christmas Holidays. The smell of freshly cut pine trees is in the air as the City of Paris gardeners arrange Christmas trees on the Champs Elysees Rond Point. Aside from the aroma of pine needles, you may catch a whiff of pricey perfumer at Guerlain,, 68 Champs Elysees, one of Paris’s top perfumer houses. For Christmas its windows are decorated with its ‘white bee’ and ‘golden bee’ scents which start at a paltry 300 and 400 Euros for a little l’eau de toilette.
If you’ve already visited Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides, you may already know that the emperor’s emblem was the honey bee. Diligence, hard work, and maybe you, too, can afford a bottle of golden bee perfume. I have to admit, I wasn’t even so bold as to walk into ask for a free sample. However, I did pop in next door to Sephora where you can try out all sorts of perfume samples to your heart’s content. Or you can have a French makeover.
There were dozens of nicely gift packaged perfumes here, but quite honestly, whatever scent was permeating the Sephora shop drove me out before I ever considered testing a single scent.
You may recall in past posts I have not had many kind words for the Champs Elysees as a recommended Paris highlight, however, if you’re in Paris during the holiday season, there are a number of good reasons to visit this Right Bank bastion of consumerism.
This is the proverbial toy shop for adults as well as children and one of the most fun places to stop in and be mesmerized is the Renault ‘Magic’ Atelier at 53 Champs Elysees. You may not be in the market for a Renault, but they sell toy Renaults as well as the full size model. Their displays never cease to impress me - and I’m not even a car buff. If you pop in a Sunday afternoon, you may want to try out their Sunday brunch. For 25 Euros, you can have champagne and a Spanish omelette on the second level.
If you’ve already visited Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides, you may already know that the emperor’s emblem was the honey bee. Diligence, hard work, and maybe you, too, can afford a bottle of golden bee perfume. I have to admit, I wasn’t even so bold as to walk into ask for a free sample. However, I did pop in next door to Sephora where you can try out all sorts of perfume samples to your heart’s content. Or you can have a French makeover.
There were dozens of nicely gift packaged perfumes here, but quite honestly, whatever scent was permeating the Sephora shop drove me out before I ever considered testing a single scent.
You may recall in past posts I have not had many kind words for the Champs Elysees as a recommended Paris highlight, however, if you’re in Paris during the holiday season, there are a number of good reasons to visit this Right Bank bastion of consumerism.
This is the proverbial toy shop for adults as well as children and one of the most fun places to stop in and be mesmerized is the Renault ‘Magic’ Atelier at 53 Champs Elysees. You may not be in the market for a Renault, but they sell toy Renaults as well as the full size model. Their displays never cease to impress me - and I’m not even a car buff. If you pop in a Sunday afternoon, you may want to try out their Sunday brunch. For 25 Euros, you can have champagne and a Spanish omelette on the second level.
Shopping for Toys?
Shopping for Toys?
Another good reason to come to the Champs Elysees is if you’re looking for toy shops for kids (I wouldn’t have known about this shop if it hadn’t been the group from Almaty, Kazakhstan in the Metro who had been looking for a toy shop at the Franklin Roosevelt Metro stop. (Toy stores are not always easy to find in Paris!)
Another good reason to come to the Champs Elysees is if you’re looking for toy shops for kids (I wouldn’t have known about this shop if it hadn’t been the group from Almaty, Kazakhstan in the Metro who had been looking for a toy shop at the Franklin Roosevelt Metro stop. (Toy stores are not always easy to find in Paris!)
It’s called La Grande ‘Recre’ (short for Recreation), 126 Rue de la Boetie, Metro: Franklin Roosevelt. This is your basic toy store, including children’s books in French. You can also explore some of the neighboring Champs Elysees passages for affordable souvenirs for kids such as:
Souvenir Centr n3 (the owner speaks English, and he’s very nice)
Passage Champs
84, Champs Elysees
In the same passage, SP Collection includes T-shirts, belts and shoes from Replay, G-Star, Kaporel, Schmoove, Bray Steeve Alan and Bunker. (Paris streetwear personified).
It’s called La Grande ‘Recre’ (short for Recreation), 126 Rue de la Boetie, Metro: Franklin Roosevelt. This is your basic toy store, including children’s books in French. You can also explore some of the neighboring Champs Elysees passages for affordable souvenirs for kids such as:
Souvenir Centr n3 (the owner speaks English, and he’s very nice)
Passage Champs
84, Champs Elysees
In the same passage, SP Collection includes T-shirts, belts and shoes from Replay, G-Star, Kaporel, Schmoove, Bray Steeve Alan and Bunker. (Paris streetwear personified).
Some other affordable options for souvenirs and shopping including Monoprix (directly opposite the toy shop on the corner of the Champs Elysees and Rue Boetie, Promod, Zara, (for womenswear) and Minelli (for boots and shoes) are all very moderately priced.
Beware once you get to the Rond Point and turn the corner onto Avenue Montaigne. You have crossed the border from tourist-driven Champs Elysees and edged your way into the heady aura of ‘haute couture’ or something ’semblable’. I have to admit that the new Louis Vuitton behemoth, D&C Boutique and Chanel leave me feeling cold. Picking up a little evening clutch for much less than a grand is unlikely, but surprisingly you might find a warm scarf down the avenue a ways for 100 Euros.
What’s almost more fun than window shopping is looking at the Paris street fashion. At this time of year, you’re most likely to see local sales people (and some actual clients) popping out of shops or taxis to find a lunch spot. The coats may be classic in line, but always with a dash of color in just the right place. You’ll see plenty of high leather boots molded to long and longer legs.
Everyone is delighted to have a sunny November day as a good excuse to sport their shades.
All that remains to complete a Champs promenade is to find the right spot for a light lunch (i.e. fuel). The budget is tight. Where does one eat on the Champs for less than 10 Euros - voila the eternal question. I admitted that I haven’t set foot in a Macdo (Macdonalds) in recent years. I actually tried walking into the ‘Quick’ which is a ‘Macdo’ clone. Couldn’t do it. That’s what happens after seeing the movie ‘Supersize me’.
Here is a fine option. If you walk into the passage 66 Champs Elysees (taking the side entrance from Rue de la Boetie, you’ll note a number of ‘quick food’ options including the
Ginza Elysees
Tel. 01 45 62 31 03.
For 7 Euros, I had a plate of 6 Kapa Maki and a mug of green tea.
The ambiance is polite, A comfortable table and chair available.
Sushi and skewered ‘brochettes’ are also options, ranging in menu price from 8.50 to 15 Euros. I noted that a number of people eating here appeared to be locals.
If you are visiting the Champs Elysees with kids, you may want to consider continuing your walk from the Rond Point Metro: Champs Elysees to Place de la Concorde and the Tuilieries Gardens.
Here you’ll find the huge ferris wheel which was originally installed for the new millennium celebrations. In my humble opinion, the very best aerial view of Paris is from the top of a ferris wheel. It’s the most fun - and the least hassle.
